Consuming mass fashion in 1930s England : design, manufacture and retailing for young working-class women / / Cheryl Roberts

• Autore: Roberts Cheryl
• Pubblicazione: Cham, Switzerland : , : Palgrave Macmillan, , [2022]; ©2022
• Descrizione fisica: 1 online resource (354 pages)
• Disciplina: 002
• Soggetto topico: Women's clothing
• Note generali: Includes index.
• Nota di contenuto: Intro -- Acknowledgements -- Contents -- About the Author -- List of Figures -- 1 Introduction: Premise -- Time Frame -- Definition of Terms -- 1930s Working Class and Locale -- Young, Modern, Working-Class Women in the 1930s -- The Definition of Working-Class Dress -- Affordability -- Ready-Made, Ready-to-Wear and Lightweight Clothing -- The Framework and Structure of This Book -- The Fusing of Business Archives and Object-Based Research: A Developing Approach to Fashion and Dress Histories -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 2 Agents of Change -- Social Place -- Locality and Locale -- Shared Community Values and Indicators of Class -- Poverty -- Class and Poverty -- Employment as an Indicator of Class -- Employment Possibilities -- Wage Contribution -- Social Communities of Work -- Leisure -- Defining Agents of Change -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 3 What Is Fashion? -- Communicating Fashion -- Fashion and Individuality -- Individuality and Community Identity -- Peer Group, Social Pressure and Individual Dressing: Fashion in the Eye of the Beholder -- Dress as a Social Indicator and Social Uniform -- Conformity -- Taste -- Issues of Mass Fashion: Innovators or Emulators? -- Material Agency -- Fashion or Style? -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 4 Progressive Production Practices: Developments in Design, Print, Colour Forecasting and Fabric -- Designing Fashionable Lightweight Ready-Made Dresses -- Fabric Designs and Textile Prints -- Floral Frocks, Designers and Frivolity -- Colour Forecasting -- Colour in the Wardrobe of a Young Working-Class Woman -- Rayon: The Fabric Revolution and British Suppliers -- Artificial Fibres: The Importance of Quality and the Sensory -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 5 New Developments and Technological Change: The Business of Mass Manufacturing Fashion -- London as a Centre for Mass Fashion -- Fashion Fluctuations. ; Mass Manufacture or Technological Determinism: Creators of Consumption -- Technological Determinism: Vertical Integration Versus Vertical Disintegration -- Small Factory Production -- Jewish Workshops and Factories -- Workforce and Gender Change -- The Small Factory and the Shift to Dressmaking -- Methods of Production: "Making Through" and Sectionality -- Technological Driven Change? -- Wholesale Methods: The Manufacturing Middleman -- The Specialist Wholesaler, the Fashion Copy House Designers and Levels of Wholesale -- The Trading System for the Manufacturing Wholesaler of Ready-Made Lightweight Day Dresses and Their Eventual Decline -- The New Providers of Mass Manufactured Lightweight Day Dresses -- Multiple Trading: In House Manufacture vs. Direct from Manufacturer -- C& -- A. The Self-Sufficient Womenswear Provider -- C& -- A: Factory Revolutionaries-Advancement in the Mass Manufacture of Lightweight Day Dresses -- C& -- A's "Style Monotony", Consumer Demand and Manufacturing Turnover -- Marks and Spencer and the Direct from Manufacturer Approach -- The Role of Design and Technology Within Marks and Spencer's Business Practice -- N. Corah and Sons the Manufacturer: Marks and Spencer the Customer -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 6 Localities of Fashion Modernity in the 1930s: Practices of Retailing Behind the High Street -- Unsettling Times -- Consuming Fashion -- Money Lenders, Doorstep Credit, Second-Hand Dealers, Seconds Traders and Street Markets -- Tallyman, Money Lenders and Doorstep Credit -- Second-Hand Traders, Wardrobe Dealers and Hawkers-the "Curb-Side Couturiers" -- "Material Literacies" -- Jumble Sales, Sale of Jumble -- Seconds Traders of Excess and Faulty Mass Manufactured Garments: Z. Myers & -- Sons and Mr Meyer Gold -- Street Markets: Shopping for Young Working-Class Women -- Touts, Schleppers and Guinea Gowns. ; The Downfall of Berwick Street -- Cross Class Communication and Social Commentary -- Mail Order: Acquisition of Goods and Retailing Methods -- Mail Order and the Young Working-Class Woman -- Pricing Structure and Marketing: Littlewoods Rayon Day Dresses -- Littlewoods Marketing Method for One Rayon Day Dress -- Competition Between Mail Order and the High Street -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 7 Localities of Fashion Modernity in the 1930s: Practices of Retailing on the High Street -- Multiple and Chain Shops -- C& -- A Modes and the British High Street: Affordable Fashion for All? -- Missed Opportunities -- Marks and Spencer: Value and Quality -- Retailing Fashion, Value and Quality -- Marketing Methods of Lightweight Day Dresses -- Department Stores: The Working-Class Female Consumer and Class Fragmentation -- Low-End Madam Shops: The Hodson Shop, Ready-Made Clothing Wholesalers and the Customer. -- Ready-Made or Home Dressmaking? The Style Oxymoron -- Home Dressmaking Lightweight Day Dresses as a Tool for Modern Self-Presentation -- The Cost of Home Dressmaking and Its Decline -- Home Dressmaking Assumptions and Fashionability -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 8 Findings and Conclusion -- Dispelling the Tropes -- Future Possibilities? -- Notes -- Works Cited -- Index.
• Titolo autorizzato: Consuming Mass Fashion in 1930s England
• ISBN: 9783030946135; 9783030946128
• Formato: Materiale a stampa
• Livello bibliografico: Monografia
• Lingua di pubblicazione: Inglese
• Record Nr.: 9910619283203321
• Lo trovi qui: Univ. Federico II
• Serie: Palgrave Studies in Fashion and the Body