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[null,"1.","Record Nr.",null,"UNINA9911004741803321"]
[null,null,"Autore",null,"Boccotti P (Paolo)"]
[null,null,"Titolo",null,"Wave mechanics for ocean engineering / / P. Boccotti"]
[null,null,"Pubbl/distr/stampa",null,"Amsterdam ; ; New York, : Elsevier, 2000"]
[null,null,"ISBN",null,"1-281-11210-0"]
[{"$nulls":4},"9786611112103"]
[{"$nulls":4},"0-08-054372-3"]
[null,null,"Edizione",null,"[1st ed.]"]
[null,null,"Descrizione fisica",null,"1 online resource (521 p.)"]
[null,null,"Collana",null,"Elsevier oceanography series ; ; 64"]
[null,null,"Disciplina",null,"532/.593"]
[null,null,"Soggetti",null,"Wave mechanics"]
[{"$nulls":4},"Ocean waves"]
[null,null,"Lingua di pubblicazione",null,"Inglese"]
[null,null,"Formato",null,"Materiale a stampa"]
[null,null,null,"Livello bibliografico","Monografia"]
[null,null,null,"Note generali","Description based upon print version of record."]
[null,null,null,"Nota di bibliografia","Includes bibliographical references and indexes."]
[null,null,"Nota di contenuto",null,"Front Cover; Wave Mechanics for Ocean Engineering; Copyright Page; List of Contents; Chapter 1. Periodic wave pattern: the approach of differential calculus; 1.1 The irrotational flow, the continuity equation, the Bernoulli equation; 1.2 The differential equations of an irrotational flow with a free surface; 1.3 Introduction to wave mechanics; 1.4 Stokes' theory to the first order; 1.5 Analysis of the linear dispersion rule; 1.6 The flow field; 1.7 Stokes' theory to the second order; 1.8 Non-linearity effects; 1.9 Wave-current interaction. Part I: velocity potential and wavelength"]
[{"$nulls":4},"1.10 Preliminary remarks on three dimensional waves1.11 Wave reflection; 1.12 Wave diffraction; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 2. Periodic wave pattern: the control volume approach; 2.1 The linear momentum equation for a control volume; 2.2 The energy equation for a control volume; 2.3 Radiation stress, mean energy flux, mean wave energy per unit surface; 2.4 Formulae for radiation stress and mean energy flux of progressive waves; 2.5 The problem of the control volume extending from deep to shallow water; 2.6 Practical consequences of the control volume problem"]
[{"$nulls":4},"2.7 A current associated with the wave motion2.8 Wave refraction for an arbitrary configuration of the seabed; 2.9 The group celerity; 2.10 Wave-current interaction. Part II: shoaling and set-down; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 3. Wave effects on coasts; 3.1 The control volume from the breaker line to the beach; 3.2 The run-up; 3.3 The longshore transport; 3.4 The analytical approach to the problem of "]
[{"$nulls":4},"beach planform evolution; 3.5 Problem of beach planform evolution: the case of contour lines parallel up to deep water"]
[{"$nulls":4},"3.6 Problem of beach planform evolution: the case of contour lines parallel only within a certain distance from the shoreline3.7 Planform evolution of a natural shoreline; 3.8 Stability of a nourished beach; 3.9 Planform evolution of beach nourishment projects; 3.10 A useful simplification; 3.11 Beach planform evolution caused by structures; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 4. Wind generated waves: basic concepts; 4.1 The sea state; 4.2 The theory of the sea states; 4.3 Some basic relations in the theory of the sea states; 4.4 How to obtain the input data of the theory"]
[{"$nulls":4},"4.5 A mathematical form of the wind wave spectrum4.6 Possibility of testing small scale models in sea or lakes; 4.7 Inferring the nature of waves from the bandwidth; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 5. Analysis of the sea states: the time domain; 5.1 Why the surface displacement represents a stationary Gaussian process; 5.2 Joint probability of surface displacements; 5.3 Rice's problem; 5.4 Rice's logic; 5.5 Corollaries of Rice's problem; 5.6 Solved and still unsolved problems; 5.7 The period of a very high wave and the wave height probability under general bandwidth assumptions"]
[{"$nulls":4},"5.8 Experimental verification"]
[null,null,null,"Sommario/riassunto","In a unitary way, this monograph deals with a wide range of subjects related to the mechanics of sea waves. The book highlights recent theoretical results on the dynamics of random wind-generated waves, on long-term wave statistics, and on beach planform evolution. A fresh approach is given to more traditional concepts. For example, new evidence from a recent series of small-scale field experiments is used to introduce some crucial topics like wave forces. Also, the book gives some worked examples for the design of offshore or coastal structures.  An exciting subject dealt with in th"]