LEADER 04699 am 22005053u 450 001 996312647403316 005 20200406050111.0 010 $a3-11-063594-1 024 7 $a10.1515/9783110635942 035 $a(CKB)4100000009751821 035 $a(OAPEN)1006591 035 $a(DE-B1597)506938 035 $a(OCoLC)1125189614 035 $a(DE-B1597)9783110635942 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC6637604 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL6637604 035 $a(OCoLC)1135847831 035 $a(EXLCZ)994100000009751821 100 $a20200406h20192019 fg 101 0 $aeng 135 $auuuuu---auuuu 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 00$aJahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte / European History Yearbook. $hBand 20, $iDress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe /$fCornelia Aust, Denise Klein, Thomas Weller 210 1$aMünchen ;$aWien : $cDe Gruyter Oldenbourg, $d[2019] 210 4$d©2019 215 $a1 online resource (212) 225 0 $aJahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte / European History Yearbook ;$vBand 20 311 $a3-11-063204-7 327 $tFrontmatter -- $tContents Contents -- $tIntroduction -- $t"The Antipathy between French and Spaniards": Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern Naples, 1501-1799 -- $t"a sutte of black which will always be of use to you": Expressions of Difference and Similarity in the Clothing Choices of the Scottish Male Elite Travelling in Europe, 1550-1750 -- $t"He knows them by their dress": Dress and Otherness in Early Modern Spain -- $tJewish Travelers in Early Modern Italy: Visible and Invisible Resistance to the Jewish Badge -- $tFrom Noble Dress to Jewish Attire: Jewish Appearances in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Holy Roman Empire -- $tThe Emergence of a Polish National Dress and Its Perception -- $tShawls and Sable Furs: How to Be a Boyar under the Phanariot Regime (1710-1821) -- $tImperial Fashions: Cashmere Shawls between Istanbul, Paris, and Milan (Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries) -- $tEverything in its Right Place? -- $tList of Contributors 330 $aDress is a key marker of difference. It is closely attached to the body, part of the daily routine, and an unavoidable means of communication. The clothes people wear tell stories about their allegiances and identities but also about their exclusion and stigmatization. They allow for the display of wealth and can mercilessly display poverty and indigence. Clothes also enable people to play with identities and affinities: for instance, individuals can claim higher social status via their clothes. In many ways, dress is thus open to manipulation by the wearer and misinterpretation by the observer. Authorities-whether religious or secular, local or regional-have always aimed at imposing order on this potential muddle. This is particularly true for the early modern era, when the world became ever more complex. In Europe, the composition of societies diversified with the emergence of new social groups and increasing migration and travel. Thanks to intensified long-distance trade and technological developments, new fashionable clothes and accessories entered the market. With the emergence of a consumer culture, it was now the case that not only the extremely wealthy could afford at least the occasional indulgence in luxury items and accessories. Over recent years, research has focused on a variety of areas related to dress and appearance in the context of early-modern political, socio-economic, and cultural transformations both within Europe and related to its entanglement with other parts of the world. Nevertheless, a significant compartmentalization in the research on dress and appearance remains: research is often organized around particular cities and territories, and much research is still framed by modern national boundaries. This special issue looks at dress and its perception in Europe from a transcultural perspective and highlights the many differences that clothing can express. 606 $aEuropean history$2bicssc 606 $aEarly modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700$2bicssc 615 7$aEuropean history 615 7$aEarly modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 702 $aAust$b Cornelia , $4edt$4http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators/edt 702 $aKlein$b Denise, $4edt$4http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators/edt 702 $aWeller$b Thomas, $4edt$4http://id.loc.gov/vocabulary/relators/edt 801 0$bDE-B1597 801 1$bDE-B1597 906 $aBOOK 912 $a996312647403316 996 $aJahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte$92027058 997 $aUNISA