LEADER 05143nam 2200625 a 450 001 9911004741803321 005 20200520144314.0 010 $a1-281-11210-0 010 $a9786611112103 010 $a0-08-054372-3 035 $a(CKB)1000000000383932 035 $a(EBL)328575 035 $a(OCoLC)212141360 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000073196 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11997232 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000073196 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10103705 035 $a(PQKB)10712369 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC328575 035 $a(EXLCZ)991000000000383932 100 $a20000622d2000 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|n|---||||| 181 $ctxt 182 $cc 183 $acr 200 10$aWave mechanics for ocean engineering /$fP. Boccotti 205 $a1st ed. 210 $aAmsterdam ;$aNew York $cElsevier$d2000 215 $a1 online resource (521 p.) 225 1 $aElsevier oceanography series ;$v64 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 $a0-444-50380-3 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and indexes. 327 $aFront Cover; Wave Mechanics for Ocean Engineering; Copyright Page; List of Contents; Chapter 1. Periodic wave pattern: the approach of differential calculus; 1.1 The irrotational flow, the continuity equation, the Bernoulli equation; 1.2 The differential equations of an irrotational flow with a free surface; 1.3 Introduction to wave mechanics; 1.4 Stokes' theory to the first order; 1.5 Analysis of the linear dispersion rule; 1.6 The flow field; 1.7 Stokes' theory to the second order; 1.8 Non-linearity effects; 1.9 Wave-current interaction. Part I: velocity potential and wavelength 327 $a1.10 Preliminary remarks on three dimensional waves1.11 Wave reflection; 1.12 Wave diffraction; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 2. Periodic wave pattern: the control volume approach; 2.1 The linear momentum equation for a control volume; 2.2 The energy equation for a control volume; 2.3 Radiation stress, mean energy flux, mean wave energy per unit surface; 2.4 Formulae for radiation stress and mean energy flux of progressive waves; 2.5 The problem of the control volume extending from deep to shallow water; 2.6 Practical consequences of the control volume problem 327 $a2.7 A current associated with the wave motion2.8 Wave refraction for an arbitrary configuration of the seabed; 2.9 The group celerity; 2.10 Wave-current interaction. Part II: shoaling and set-down; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 3. Wave effects on coasts; 3.1 The control volume from the breaker line to the beach; 3.2 The run-up; 3.3 The longshore transport; 3.4 The analytical approach to the problem of beach planform evolution; 3.5 Problem of beach planform evolution: the case of contour lines parallel up to deep water 327 $a3.6 Problem of beach planform evolution: the case of contour lines parallel only within a certain distance from the shoreline3.7 Planform evolution of a natural shoreline; 3.8 Stability of a nourished beach; 3.9 Planform evolution of beach nourishment projects; 3.10 A useful simplification; 3.11 Beach planform evolution caused by structures; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 4. Wind generated waves: basic concepts; 4.1 The sea state; 4.2 The theory of the sea states; 4.3 Some basic relations in the theory of the sea states; 4.4 How to obtain the input data of the theory 327 $a4.5 A mathematical form of the wind wave spectrum4.6 Possibility of testing small scale models in sea or lakes; 4.7 Inferring the nature of waves from the bandwidth; Conclusive note; References; Chapter 5. Analysis of the sea states: the time domain; 5.1 Why the surface displacement represents a stationary Gaussian process; 5.2 Joint probability of surface displacements; 5.3 Rice's problem; 5.4 Rice's logic; 5.5 Corollaries of Rice's problem; 5.6 Solved and still unsolved problems; 5.7 The period of a very high wave and the wave height probability under general bandwidth assumptions 327 $a5.8 Experimental verification 330 $aIn a unitary way, this monograph deals with a wide range of subjects related to the mechanics of sea waves. The book highlights recent theoretical results on the dynamics of random wind-generated waves, on long-term wave statistics, and on beach planform evolution. A fresh approach is given to more traditional concepts. For example, new evidence from a recent series of small-scale field experiments is used to introduce some crucial topics like wave forces. Also, the book gives some worked examples for the design of offshore or coastal structures. An exciting subject dealt with in th 410 0$aElsevier oceanography series ;$v64. 606 $aWave mechanics 606 $aOcean waves 615 0$aWave mechanics. 615 0$aOcean waves. 676 $a532/.593 700 $aBoccotti$b P$g(Paolo)$09458 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9911004741803321 996 $aWave mechanics for ocean engineering$94390868 997 $aUNINA