LEADER 05625nam 2200649Ia 450 001 9910825445703321 005 20200520144314.0 010 $a1-281-93451-8 010 $a9786611934514 010 $a981-279-457-3 035 $a(CKB)1000000000538022 035 $a(EBL)1679311 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000098328 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11111311 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000098328 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10132290 035 $a(PQKB)11113353 035 $a(WSP)00004699 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL1679311 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10255585 035 $a(OCoLC)879074222 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC1679311 035 $a(EXLCZ)991000000000538022 100 $a19941019d2001 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|n|---||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 00$aAdvances in coastal and ocean engineering$hVolume 7 /$feditor, Philip L.-F. Liu 205 $a1st ed. 210 $aSingapore ;$aRiver Edge, N.J. $cWorld Scientific$dc2001 215 $a1 online resource (xi, 240 pages) $cillustrations 225 1 $aAdvances in coastal and ocean engineering ;$vv. 7 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 0 $a981-02-4620-X 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references. 327 $aPreface to the review series; Preface to the seventh volume; Contributors; Contents; Nonlinear Modulation of Water Waves; 1. Introduction; 2. Basic Insight into Modulational Processes; 2.1. A simple example of instability; 2.2. Basic ideas of the Benjamin-Feir instability mechanism; 3. Nonlinear Schrodinger-type Equations: Horizontal Bottom; 3.1. A heuristic derivation of the NLS equation; 3.2. The scaling in the NLS equation; 3.3. A sketch of the derivation in two horizontal dimensions; 3.4. Conservation laws; 3.5. Special cases of NLS-type equations; 3.6. Effects of surface tension 327 $a4. Nonlinear Schrodinger-type Equations: Uneven Bottom; 4.1. Propagation in one dimension; 4.2. Propagation in two horizontal dimensions; 4.3. Shallow-water limit; 4.4. Effect of an ambient current on 1D propagation; 5. Some Solutions of the NLS-type Equations; 5.1. Decaying solutions; 5.2. Soliton-type solutions; 6. Higher-Order Modulation Equations; 6.1. The Dysthe equation; 6.2. Modification due to an ambient current; 6.3. The Zakharov equation; 6.4. Reduction of Zakharov equation to NLS-type equation; 6.5. Extensions of the Zakharov equation; 7. Generation of Free Long Waves 327 $a7.1. Formulation of the equations; 7.2. 1D situation no ambient currents; 8. Observations of Wave Modulations; 8.1. Theoretical aspects of modulational instability; 8.2. Laboratory observations; 8.3. Deep-water modulation: initial stage and demodulation; 8.4. Deep-water modulation: modulation leading to breaking; 8.5. Spectral evolution; 8.6. Comparison between theory and experiment; 9. Summary; References; Bubble Measurement Techniques and Bubble Dynamics in Coastal Shallow Water; 1. Introduction; 2. Primary Mechanisms of Wave Breaking and Bubble Generation 327 $a3. The Bubble Field Description and Bubble Sensors; 4. Shallow Water Deployment Techniques; 5. Large Scale Shallow Water Field Experiments (1985-1999); 6. Bubble Void Fraction Variations Near Surf Zones; 7. Bubble Size Distributions in Littoral Zones; 8. General Remarks on Bubble Dynamics in Shallow Water; References; Simulation of Waves in Harbors Using Two-Dimensional Elliptic Equation Models; 1. Introduction; 2. Boundary Conditions; 3. Numerical Solution; 4. Incorporation of Additional Mechanisms; 5. Application to Harbors; 6. Concluding Remarks; References 327 $aRecent Advances in the Modeling of Wave and Permeable Structure Interaction; 1. Introduction; 2. Porous Flow Models; 3. General Governing Equations and Matching Conditions; 4. Wave Interaction with Structures. Linear Solutions; 5. Shallow Water Models; 6. Short Wave-Averaged Flow; 7. Modeling Based on the Navier-Stokes Equations; 8. Conclusions; 9. Future Work; References; Descriptive Hydrodynamics of Lock-Exchange Flows; 1. Introduction; 2. Experimental Facilities; 3. Basis for Interpretations of Flow Images; 4. Features of Gravity Currents; 5. Features of Internal Bores; 6. Flow Expansion of Gravity Currents and Internal Bores 330 $aThis volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal oceanographic engineering. The reader can find an article discussing the modern bubble measurement techniques applied to field studies of bubble dynamics in coastal shallow water. A comprehensive review paper on nonlinear modulation of water waves provides readers with a new perspective on nonlinear processes in the coastal and ocean wave environment. For those who are interested in wave modelling, there are two review articles discussing various wave models, which can be used to study wave-structure interactions and harbor oscillations. Finally, readers who are interested in the subject of stratified flows can find an article presenting the detailed laboratory observations of lock-exchange flows. 410 0$aAdvances in coastal and ocean engineering ;$vv. 7. 606 $aCoastal engineering 606 $aOcean engineering 615 0$aCoastal engineering. 615 0$aOcean engineering. 676 $a620.4146 701 $aLiu$b Philip L. F$0496387 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910825445703321 996 $aAdvances in coastal and ocean engineering$943084 997 $aUNINA