LEADER 04059nam 22006974a 450 001 9910821450703321 005 20200520144314.0 010 $a1-282-75872-1 010 $a9786612758720 010 $a0-520-92139-9 010 $a1-59734-954-2 024 7 $a10.1525/9780520921399 035 $a(CKB)111087027174468 035 $a(EBL)223407 035 $a(OCoLC)475927926 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000259143 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11237932 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000259143 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10273085 035 $a(PQKB)11101895 035 $a(StDuBDS)EDZ0000056125 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC223407 035 $a(OCoLC)52842830 035 $a(MdBmJHUP)muse30590 035 $a(DE-B1597)521108 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780520921399 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL223407 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10048947 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL275872 035 $a(EXLCZ)99111087027174468 100 $a20010522d2002 ub 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|n|---||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 14$aThe three-piece suit and modern masculinity $eEngland, 1550-1850 /$fDavid Kuchta 205 $a1st ed. 210 $aBerkeley $cUniversity of California Press$dc2002 215 $a1 online resource (314 pages) $cillustrations 225 1 $aStudies on the history of society and culture ;$v47 300 $aRevision of the author's thesis (doctoral). 311 0 $a0-520-21493-5 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references (p. 253-293) and index. 327 $aConspicuous constructions -- The old sartorial regime, 1550-1688 -- "Apparel oft proclaims the man" -- The crown proclaims the apparel -- Court capitalism -- Religious conformity to fashion -- The seventeenth-century fashion crisis -- "The mode is a tyrant" -- "A tailor made thee" -- "Popery and foppery" -- The moral economy of mercantilism -- The three-piece suit -- Masculinity in the "Age of Chivalry," 1688-1832 -- "the manners of a republic" -- Gentlemanly capitalism -- Sublime masculinity -- The feminization of fashion -- The making of the self-made man, 1750-1850 -- "Character is power" -- The language of capital -- "The great masculine renunciation." 330 $aIn 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together.Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits. 410 0$aStudies on the history of society and culture ;$v47. 606 $aMen's clothing$zEngland$xHistory 606 $aMasculinity$xHistory 615 0$aMen's clothing$xHistory. 615 0$aMasculinity$xHistory. 676 $a391/.1/0942 686 $aHD 305$2rvk 700 $aKuchta$b David$f1960-$01604051 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910821450703321 996 $aThe three-piece suit and modern masculinity$93928689 997 $aUNINA