LEADER 05035nam 2201009 450 001 9910819626303321 005 20230807221051.0 010 $a0-520-96258-3 024 7 $a10.1525/9780520962583 035 $a(CKB)3710000000445805 035 $a(EBL)2025587 035 $a(SSID)ssj0001516978 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)12622221 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0001516978 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)11502486 035 $a(PQKB)11661080 035 $a(StDuBDS)EDZ0001535273 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC2025587 035 $a(OCoLC)961903217 035 $a(MdBmJHUP)muse52255 035 $a(DE-B1597)519383 035 $a(OCoLC)913869374 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780520962583 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL2025587 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr11078093 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL812636 035 $a(EXLCZ)993710000000445805 100 $a20150725h20152015 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|nu---|u||u 181 $ctxt 182 $cc 183 $acr 200 10$aDivided spirits $etequila, mezcal, and the politics of production /$fSarah Bowen 210 1$aOakland, California :$cUniversity of California Press,$d2015. 210 4$dİ2015 215 $a1 online resource (281 p.) 225 1 $aCalifornia Studies in Food and Culture ;$v56 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 0 $a0-520-28105-5 311 0 $a0-520-28104-7 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $tFront matter --$tContents --$tList of Illustrations --$tAcknowledgments --$tAbbreviations --$tMaps --$t1. The Promise of Place --$t2. From the Fields to Your Glass --$t3. Whose Rules Rule? Creating and Defining Tequila Quality --$t4. The Heart of the Agave: Farming in Tequila Country --$t5. Making Mezcal in the Shadow of the Denomination of Origin --$t6. Hipsters, Hope, and the Future of Artisanal Mezcal --$t7. Looking Forward --$tMethodological Appendix --$tNotes --$tWorks Cited --$tIndex 330 $aDivided Spirits tells the stories of tequila and mezcal, two of Mexico's most iconic products. In doing so, the book illustrates how neoliberalism influences the production, branding, and regulation of local foods and drinks. It also challenges the strategy of relying on "alternative" markets to protect food cultures and rural livelihoods. In recent years, as consumers increasingly demand to connect with the people and places that produce their food, the concept of terroir-the taste of place-has become more and more prominent. Tequila and mezcal are both protected by denominations of origin (DOs), legal designations that aim to guarantee a product's authenticity based on its link to terroir. Advocates argue that the DOs expand market opportunities, protect cultural heritage, and ensure the reputation of Mexico's national spirits. Yet this book shows how the institutions that are supposed to guard "the legacy of all Mexicans" often fail those who are most in need of protection: the small producers, agave farmers, and other workers who have been making tequila and mezcal for generations. The consequences-for the quality and taste of tequila and mezcal, and for communities throughout Mexico-are stark. Divided Spirits suggests that we must move beyond market-based models if we want to safeguard local products and the people who make them. Instead, we need systems of production, consumption, and oversight that are more democratic, more inclusive, and more participatory. Lasting change is unlikely without the involvement of the state and a sustained commitment to addressing inequality and supporting rural development. 410 0$aCalifornia studies in food and culture ;$v56. 606 $aMescal 606 $aMescal industry 610 $aagave tequila. 610 $aagave. 610 $aalcohol branding. 610 $aalcohol industry. 610 $aalcohol production. 610 $abooze. 610 $abranding liquor. 610 $adenominations of origin. 610 $afood and agriculture. 610 $ahistory of mezcal. 610 $ahistory of tequila. 610 $aliquor production. 610 $alocal food movement. 610 $alocal spirits. 610 $amaking tequila. 610 $amexican liquor. 610 $amexican mezcal. 610 $amexican tequila. 610 $amexicos national spirits. 610 $amezcal or tequila. 610 $amezcal. 610 $aproduction of mezcal. 610 $aproduction of tequila. 610 $aprotected food branding. 610 $asmall tequila producers. 610 $ataste of place. 610 $atequila. 610 $aterroir. 610 $awine and spirits. 615 0$aMescal. 615 0$aMescal industry. 676 $a338.4/76635 700 $aBowen$b Sarah$f1978-$01643295 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910819626303321 996 $aDivided spirits$93988461 997 $aUNINA