LEADER 04690nam 2200805 a 450 001 9910788580303321 005 20230831232741.0 010 $a1-283-89695-8 010 $a0-8122-0459-X 024 7 $a10.9783/9780812204599 035 $a(CKB)3240000000064702 035 $a(OCoLC)822890077 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebrary10641566 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000631102 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11420404 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000631102 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10591858 035 $a(PQKB)11680873 035 $a(OCoLC)794700781 035 $a(MdBmJHUP)muse18484 035 $a(DE-B1597)449373 035 $a(OCoLC)979580775 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780812204599 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL3441731 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10641566 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL420945 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC3441731 035 $a(EXLCZ)993240000000064702 100 $a20110317d2011 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aurcn||||||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 181 $csti$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aZoot suit $ethe enigmatic career of an extreme style /$fKathy Peiss 210 1$aPhiladelphia :$cUniversity of Pennsylvania Press,$d[2011] 210 4$d©2011 215 $a1 online resource (238 pages) $cillustrations 300 $aBibliographic Level Mode of Issuance: Monograph 311 08$aPrint version: 9781283896955 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references (pages 193-226) and index. 327 $aIntroduction -- Making the suit zoot -- Going to extremes -- Into the public eye -- From rags to riot -- Reading the riddle -- Zooting around the world -- Aftermath. 330 $aZOOT SUIT (n.): the ultimate in clothes. The only totally and truly American civilian suit.-Cab Calloway, The Hepster's Dictionary, 1944Before the fashion statements of hippies, punks, or hip-hop, there was the zoot suit, a striking urban look of the World War II era that captivated the imagination. Created by poor African American men and obscure tailors, the "drape shape" was embraced by Mexican American pachucos, working-class youth, entertainers, and swing dancers, yet condemned by the U.S. government as wasteful and unpatriotic in a time of war. The fashion became notorious when it appeared to trigger violence and disorder in Los Angeles in 1943-events forever known as the "zoot suit riot." In its wake, social scientists, psychiatrists, journalists, and politicians all tried to explain the riddle of the zoot suit, transforming it into a multifaceted symbol: to some, a sign of social deviance and psychological disturbance, to others, a gesture of resistance against racial prejudice and discrimination. As controversy swirled at home, young men in other places-French zazous, South African tsotsi, Trinidadian saga boys, and Russian stiliagi-made the American zoot suit their own. In Zoot Suit, historian Kathy Peiss explores this extreme fashion and its mysterious career during World War II and after, as it spread from Harlem across the United States and around the world. She traces the unfolding history of this style and its importance to the youth who adopted it as their uniform, and at the same time considers the way public figures, experts, political activists, and historians have interpreted it. This outré style was a turning point in the way we understand the meaning of clothing as an expression of social conditions and power relations. Zoot Suit offers a new perspective on youth culture and the politics of style, tracing the seam between fashion and social action. 517 3 $aEnigmatic career of an extreme style 606 $aClothing and dress$xSocial aspects$zUnited States 606 $aFashion$zUnited States$xHistory$y20th century 606 $aMinority youth$zUnited States$xSocial life and customs$y20th century 606 $aHISTORY$zUnited States$y20th Century$2bisacsh 606 $aClothing and dress$xSocial aspects$2fast$3(OCoLC)fst00864722 606 $aFashion$2fast$3(OCoLC)fst00921600 607 $aUnited States$2fast 610 $aAmerican History. 610 $aAmerican Studies. 610 $aCultural Studies. 615 0$aClothing and dress$xSocial aspects 615 0$aFashion$xHistory 615 0$aMinority youth$xSocial life and customs 615 7$aHISTORY 615 7$aClothing and dress$xSocial aspects. 615 7$aFashion. 676 $a391/.10973 700 $aPeiss$b Kathy Lee$01467610 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910788580303321 996 $aZoot suit$93678336 997 $aUNINA