LEADER 04518oam 2200721Ia 450 001 9910788374303321 005 20231204174007.0 010 $a1-283-89809-8 010 $a0-8122-0533-2 024 7 $a10.9783/9780812205336 035 $a(CKB)3170000000046582 035 $a(OCoLC)794700574 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebrary10576062 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000605749 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11391680 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000605749 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10574899 035 $a(PQKB)10844748 035 $a(MdBmJHUP)muse8332 035 $a(DE-B1597)449389 035 $a(OCoLC)1013946160 035 $a(OCoLC)979748546 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780812205336 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL3441622 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10576062 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL421059 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC3441622 035 $a(EXLCZ)993170000000046582 100 $a20100302h20102010 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aurcn||||||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aAccessories to modernity $efashion and the feminine in nineteenth-century France /$fSusan Hiner 210 1$aPhiladelphia :$cUniversity of Pennsylvania Press,$d2010. 210 4$dİ2010 215 $a1 online resource (viii, 281 pages) $cillustrations 300 $aBibliographic Level Mode of Issuance: Monograph 311 0 $a0-8122-4259-9 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $tFront matter --$tContents --$tList of Illustrations --$tPrologue --$t1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction --$t2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage --$t3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic --$t4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex --$t5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification --$t6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags --$tEpilogue. The Feminine Accessory --$tNotes --$tBibliography --$tIndex --$tAcknowledgments 330 $aAccessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in fashion journals and illustrations, as well as fiction, the book explores the histories and cultural weight of the objects themselves and offers fresh readings of works by Balzac, Flaubert, and Zola, some of the most widely read novels of the period. As social boundaries were becoming more and more fluid in the nineteenth century, one effort to impose order over the looming confusion came, in the case of women, through fashion, and the fashion accessory thus became an ever more crucial tool through which social distinction could be created, projected, and maintained. Looking through the lens of fashion, Susan Hiner explores the interplay of imperialist expansion and domestic rituals, the assertion of privilege in the face of increasing social mobility, gendering practices and their relation to social hierarchies, and the rise of commodity culture and woman's paradoxical status as both consumer and object within it. Through her close focus on these luxury objects, Hiner reframes the feminine fashion accessory as a key symbol of modernity that bridges the erotic and proper, the domestic and exotic, and mass production and the work of art while making a larger claim about the "accessory" status-in terms of both complicity and subordination-of bourgeois women in nineteenth-century France. Women were not simply passive bystanders but rather were themselves accessories to the work of modernity from which they were ostensibly excluded. 606 $aClothing and dress$zFrance$xHistory$y19th century 606 $aFashion$zFrance$xHistory$y19th century 606 $aWomen$zFrance$xHistory$y19th century 607 $aFrance$xSocial life and customs$y19th century 610 $aCultural Studies. 610 $aGender Studies. 610 $aLiterature. 610 $aWomen's Studies. 615 0$aClothing and dress$xHistory 615 0$aFashion$xHistory 615 0$aWomen$xHistory 676 $a391.00944/09034 700 $aHiner$b Susan$01568473 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910788374303321 996 $aAccessories to modernity$93840619 997 $aUNINA