LEADER 04109nam 22006374a 450 001 9910783300603321 005 20230407225344.0 010 $a1-281-05364-3 010 $a9786611053642 010 $a0-08-054380-4 035 $a(CKB)1000000000008595 035 $a(EBL)313805 035 $a(OCoLC)476103781 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000272240 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11248243 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000272240 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10312512 035 $a(PQKB)10369444 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC313805 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL313805 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10041464 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL105364 035 $a(OCoLC)469634609 035 $a(EXLCZ)991000000000008595 100 $a19981214d1999 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|n|---||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aWind generated ocean waves /$fIan R. Young 205 $aFirst edition. 210 1$aAmsterdam ;$aNew York :$cElsevier,$d1999. 215 $a1 online resource (307 pages) $cillustrations 225 1 $aElsevier ocean engineering book series ;$vv. 2 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 0 $a0-08-043317-0 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references (p. 255-282) and index. 327 $aFront Cover; Wind Generated Ocean Waves; Copyright Page; Contents; List of Major Symbols; Chapter 1. Introduction; Chapter 2. Wave Theory; 2.1 Introduction; 2.2 Small Amplitude or Linear Theory; 2.3 Wave Transformation; 2.4 Limitations of Linear Wave Theory; 2.5 Spectral Representation of Waves; Chapter 3. Stochastic Properties of Ocean Waves; 3.1 Introduction; 3.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights; 3.3 Global Distribution of Wave Properties; 3.4 Limitations of Global Statistics; Chapter 4. Physical Mechanisms of Wave Evolution; 4.1 Introduction; 4.2 Radiative Transfer Equation 327 $a4.3 Atmospheric Input, Sin; 4.4 Nonlinear Quadruplet Interactions, Snl; 4.5 White-Cap Dissipation, Sds; 4.6 The Spectral Balance; Chapter 5. Fetch and Duration Limited Growth; 5.1 Introduction; 5.2 Similarity Theory and Dimensionless Scaling; 5.3 Growth Curves for Energy and Peak Frequency; 5.4 One-Dimensional Spectrum; 5.5 Directional Spreading; Chapter 6. Non-stationary Wind Fields; 6.1 Introduction; 6.2 The Interaction of Swell and Wind Sea; 6.3 Rapid Change in Wind Speed; 6.4 Rapid Change in Wind Direction; 6.5 Hurricane Wind and Wave Fields; Chapter 7. Finite Depth Effects 327 $a7.1 Introduction; 7.2 Physical Processes; 7.3 Finite Depth Growth Curves; 7.4 Finite Depth One-dimensional Spectra; 7.5 Finite Depth Directional Spreading; Chapter 8. Numerical Modelling of Waves; 8.1 Introduction; 8.2 Phase Resolving Models; 8.3 Phase Averaging Models; 8.4 Source Term Representation; 8.5 Computational Aspects; 8.6 The WAM Model; 8.7 Data Assimilation; Chapter 9. Ocean Wave Measurement; 9.1 Introduction; 9.2 In situ Methods; 9.3 Data Analysis; 9.4 Remote Sensing Techniques; Bibliography; Index 330 $aThe goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requi 410 0$aElsevier ocean engineering book series ;$v2. 606 $aOcean waves 606 $aWater waves 615 0$aOcean waves. 615 0$aWater waves. 676 $a551.47/022 700 $aYoung$b I. R$01486818 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910783300603321 996 $aWind generated ocean waves$93706436 997 $aUNINA