LEADER 04264nam 2200793 450 001 9910511767103321 005 20211006022241.0 010 $a0-85785-128-4 010 $a1-350-05119-5 010 $a0-85785-129-2 024 7 $a10.5040/9781350051195 035 $a(CKB)2670000000576855 035 $a(EBL)1847917 035 $a(SSID)ssj0001382692 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11771344 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0001382692 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)11474112 035 $a(PQKB)11052880 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC1847917 035 $a(OCoLC)1201426404 035 $a(CaBNVSL)9781350051195 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC6161893 035 $a(EXLCZ)992670000000576855 100 $a20201023d2020 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|n|---||||| 181 $ctxt 182 $cc 183 $acr 200 10$aFashion and jazz $edress, identity and subcultural improvisation /$fAlphonso McClendon 210 1$aLondon, England :$cBloomsbury Academic,$d2020. 210 2$aLondon, England :$cBloomsbury Publishing,$d2020 215 $a1 online resource (217 p.) 225 1 $aDress, body, culture 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 $a0-85785-127-6 311 $a0-85785-126-8 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references, discography, filmography and index. 327 $aIntroduction -- 1. Dress theory, fashion and a jazz aesthetic -- 2. A stylish history of jazz : 1900-1960 -- 3. A narrative of jazz modernity -- 4. Assessing elitism and branding in jazz -- 5. Gendered identities, ideologies and cultural difference -- 6. Subversive representation : vernacular, dress and morality -- 7. Narcotics and jazz : a fashionable addiction -- 8. Beyond the gardenia : Billie Holiday -- 9. Aesthetics of the jazz dandy -- 10. Philadelphia nightlife, nostalgia and popular culture -- Coda -- Appendix I: Recommended listening -- Appendix II: Recommended viewing -- Bibliography -- Index. 330 $a"Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. Fashion and Jazz is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history"--$cProvided by publisher. 410 0$aDress, body, culture. 606 $aClothing and dress$xHistory 606 $aFashion$xHistory 606 $aJazz$xSocial aspects 606 $aFashion & society$2bicssc 608 $aElectronic books. 610 0$a¶aClothing and dress¶xHistory 610 0$a¶aFashion¶xHistory 610 0$a¶aJazz¶xSocial aspects 610 $aGeschichte 615 0$aClothing and dress$xHistory. 615 0$aFashion$xHistory. 615 0$aJazz$xSocial aspects. 615 7$aFashion & society 676 $a391 686 $a21.85$2bcl 686 $a24.65$2bcl 686 $a71.59$2bcl 686 $aDES005000$aMUS025000$2bisacsh 686 $aLC 12610$2rvk 686 $aLS 48200$2rvk 700 $aMcClendon$b Alphonso$01067595 801 0$bDLC 801 1$bCaBNVSL 801 2$bCaBNVSL 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910511767103321 996 $aFashion and jazz$92551548 997 $aUNINA