LEADER 04108nam 2200613 450 001 9910466338003321 005 20200520144314.0 010 $a0-231-54129-5 024 7 $a10.7312/mend15860 035 $a(CKB)3710000000954446 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC4723053 035 $a(DE-B1597)478168 035 $a(OCoLC)962328145 035 $a(OCoLC)979739929 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780231541299 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL4723053 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr11527171 035 $a(EXLCZ)993710000000954446 100 $a20160628h20162016 uy| 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aurcnu|||||||| 181 $2rdacontent 182 $2rdamedia 183 $2rdacarrier 200 10$aChow chop suey $efood and the Chinese American journey /$fAnne Mendelson 210 1$aNew York :$cColumbia University Press,$d[2016] 210 4$d©2016 215 $a1 online resource (353 pages) 225 1 $aArts and traditions of the table : perspectives on culinary history 311 $a0-231-15860-2 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $tFrontmatter -- $tContents -- $tAcknowledgments -- $tA Note on Romanization and Terminology -- $tIntroduction -- $tPrologue: A Stroke of the Pen -- $tPart I -- $tOne. Origins: The Toisan-California Pipeline -- $tTwo. The Culinary "Language" Barrier -- $tThree. "Celestials" on Gold Mountain -- $tFour. The Road to Chinatown -- $tPart II -- $tFive. The Birth of Chinese American Cuisine -- $tSix. Change, Interchange, and the First Successful "Translators" -- $tSeven. White America Rediscovers Chinese Cuisine -- $tEight. An Advancement of Learning -- $tNine. The First Age of Race-Blind Immigration -- $tPostscript: What Might Have Been -- $tNotes -- $tGlossary of Chinese Terms -- $tBibliography -- $tIndex 330 $aChinese food first became popular in America under the shadow of violence against Chinese aliens, a despised racial minority ineligible for United States citizenship. The founding of late-nineteenth-century "chop suey" restaurants that pitched an altered version of Cantonese cuisine to white patrons despite a virulently anti-Chinese climate is one of several pivotal events in Anne Mendelson's thoughtful history of American Chinese food. Chow Chop Suey uses cooking to trace different stages of the Chinese community's footing in the larger white society.Mendelson begins with the arrival of men from the poorest district of Canton Province during the Gold Rush. She describes the formation of American Chinatowns and examines the curious racial dynamic underlying the purposeful invention of hybridized Chinese American food, historically prepared by Cantonese-descended cooks for whites incapable of grasping Chinese culinary principles. Mendelson then follows the eventual abolition of anti-Chinese immigration laws and the many demographic changes that transformed the face of Chinese cooking in America during and after the Cold War. Mendelson concludes with the post-1965 arrival of Chinese immigrants from Taiwan, Southeast Asia, and many regions of mainland China. 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