LEADER 05557nam 2200757 a 450 001 9910463713503321 005 20200520144314.0 010 $a1-283-89626-5 010 $a0-8122-0605-3 024 7 $a10.9783/9780812206050 035 $a(CKB)3240000000068531 035 $a(EBL)3441930 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000631271 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11451823 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000631271 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10591649 035 $a(PQKB)11329634 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC3441930 035 $a(OCoLC)794702277 035 $a(MdBmJHUP)muse17924 035 $a(DE-B1597)449307 035 $a(OCoLC)1004875671 035 $a(OCoLC)1013956158 035 $a(DE-B1597)9780812206050 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL3441930 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10642682 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL420876 035 $a(OCoLC)932312600 035 $a(EXLCZ)993240000000068531 100 $a20080128d2008 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur|||||||nn|n 181 $ctxt 182 $cc 183 $acr 200 00$aProducing fashion$b[electronic resource] $ecommerce, culture, and consumers /$fedited by Regina Lee Blaszczyk 210 $aPhiladelphia $cUniversity of Pennsylvania Press$dc2008 215 $a1 online resource (376 p.) 225 0 $aHagley Perspectives on Business and Culture 225 0$aHagley perspectives on business and culture 300 $aDescription based upon print version of record. 311 $a0-8122-2066-8 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references (p. [293]-348) and index. 327 $aChapter 1. Rethinking fashion / Regina Lee Blaszczyk -- PART I. Organizing the fashion trades -- Chapter 2. Spreading the word : the development of the Russian fashion press / Christine Ruane -- Chapter 3. Accessorizing, Italian style : creating a market for Milan's fashion merchandise / Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese -- Chapter 4. In the shadow of Paris? French haute couture and Belgian fashion between the wars / Veronique Pouillard -- Chapter 5. Licensing practices at Maison Christian Dior / Tomoko Okawa -- PART II. Inventing fashions, promoting styles -- Chapter 6. The wiener werkstatte and the reform impulse / Heather Hess -- Chapter 7. American fashions for American women : The rise and fall of fashion nationalism / Marlis Schweitzer -- Chapter 8. Coiffing vanity : advertising celluloid toilet sets in 1920s America / Ariel Beaujot -- PART III. Shaping bodies, building brands -- Chapter 9. California casual : lifestyle marketing and men's leisurewear, 1930-1960 / William Scott -- Chapter 10. Marlboro men : outside masculinities and commercial modeling in postwar America / Elspeth Brown -- Chapter 11. The body and the brand : how Lycra shaped America / Kaori O'Connor -- PART IV. Customer reactions, consumer adaptations -- Chapter 12. French hairstyles and the elusive consumer / Steve Zdatny -- Chapter 13. Ripping up the uniform approach: Hungarian women piece together a new communist fashion / Katalin Medvedev -- Chapter 14. Why the old-fashioned is in fashion in American houses / Susan Matt. 330 $aHow has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages? Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods. Producing Fashion is a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing. The collection reveals how public and private institutions-from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States-worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion-advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers-in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars. Producing Fashion looks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries. 410 0$aHagley Perspectives on Business and Culture 606 $aFashion design$y20th century$xHistory 606 $aFashion merchandising$y20th century$xHistory 606 $aConsumers' preferences$y20th century$xHistory 606 $aMarketing$xManagement$y20th century$xHistory 606 $aProduct management$y20th century$xHistory 608 $aElectronic books. 615 0$aFashion design$xHistory. 615 0$aFashion merchandising$xHistory. 615 0$aConsumers' preferences$xHistory. 615 0$aMarketing$xManagement$xHistory. 615 0$aProduct management$xHistory. 676 $a746.9/2 701 $aBlaszczyk$b Regina Lee$0947374 801 0$bMiAaPQ 801 1$bMiAaPQ 801 2$bMiAaPQ 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910463713503321 996 $aProducing fashion$92477804 997 $aUNINA