LEADER 05869nam 22007212 450 001 9910458053703321 005 20160224031216.0 010 $a1-107-22661-9 010 $a1-283-34180-8 010 $a9786613341808 010 $a1-139-10336-9 010 $a1-139-10090-4 010 $a1-139-10156-0 010 $a1-139-09887-X 010 $a0-511-73616-9 010 $a1-139-09955-8 035 $a(CKB)2550000000055610 035 $a(EBL)803054 035 $a(OCoLC)769342112 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000534625 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)11344876 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000534625 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10511641 035 $a(PQKB)10544602 035 $a(UkCbUP)CR9780511736162 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC803054 035 $a(PPN)161038395 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL803054 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10502679 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL334180 035 $a(EXLCZ)992550000000055610 100 $a20100329d2011|||| uy| 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur||||||||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aBreaking and dissipation of ocean surface waves /$fAlexander V. Babanin$b[electronic resource] 210 1$aCambridge :$cCambridge University Press,$d2011. 215 $a1 online resource (xiii, 463 pages) $cdigital, PDF file(s) 300 $aTitle from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 24 Feb 2016). 311 $a1-107-00158-7 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $aCover; BREAKING AND DISSIPATION OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES; Title; Copyright; Preface; 1 Introduction; 1.1 Wave breaking: the process that controls wave energy dissipation; 1.2 Concept of wave breaking; 2 Definitions for wave breaking; 2.1 Breaking onset; 2.2 Breaking in progress; 2.3 Residual breaking; 2.4 Classification of wave-breaking phases; 2.5 Breaking probability (frequency of occurrence); 2.6 Dispersion relationship; 2.7 Breaking severity; 2.8 Types of breaking waves: plunging, spilling and micro-breaking; 2.9 Criteria for breaking onset; 2.10 Radiative transfer equation 327 $a3 Detection and measurement of wave breaking3.1 Early observations of wave breaking, and measurements of whitecap coverage of ocean surface; 3.2 Traditional means (visual observations); 3.3 Contact measurements; 3.4 Laboratory measurements in deterministic wave fields; 3.5 Acoustic methods; 3.6 Remote sensing (radar, optical and infrared techniques); 3.7 Analytical methods of detecting breaking events in surface elevation records; 3.8 Statistical methods for quantifying breaking probability and dissipation 327 $a4 Fully nonlinear analytical theories for surface waves and numerical simulations of wave breaking4.1 Free surface at the wave breaking; 4.1.1 Simulating the evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 4.1.2 Simulation of the breaking onset; 4.1.3 Influence of wind and initial steepness; 4.2 Lagrangian nonlinear models; 5 Wave-breaking probability; 5.1 Initially monochromatic waves; 5.1.1 Evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 5.1.2 Measurement of the breaking onset; limiting steepness at breaking; 5.1.3 Laboratory investigation of wind influence; 5.1.4 Distance to the breaking 327 $a5.2 Wave-breaking threshold5.3 Spectral waves; 5.3.1 Breaking probability of dominant waves; 5.3.2 Breaking probability of small-scale waves; 5.3.3 Breaking in directional wave fields; 5.3.4 Wind-forcing effects, and breaking threshold in terms of wind speed; 6 Wave-breaking severity; 6.1 Loss of energy by an initially monochromatic steep wave; 6.2 Dependence of the breaking severity on wave field spectral properties; 7 Energy dissipation across the wave spectrum; 7.1 Theories of breaking dissipation; 7.1.1 Probability, quasi-saturated and whitecap models; 7.1.2 Kinetic-dynamic model 327 $a7.2 Simulating the wave dissipation in phase-resolvent models7.3 Measurements of the wave dissipation of spectral waves; 7.3.1 Laboratory measurements; 7.3.2 Difference in the spectral distribution of dissipation due to different types of breaking mechanisms; 7.3.3 Field measurements; 7.3.4 Cumulative effect; 7.3.5 Whitecapping dissipation at extreme wind forcing; 7.3.6 Directional distribution of the whitecapping dissipation; 7.4 Whitecapping dissipation functions in spectral models for wave forecasting; 7.5 Non-breaking spectral dissipation 327 $a8 Non-dissipative effects of breaking on the wave field 330 $aWave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering. 517 3 $aBreaking & Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves 606 $aOcean waves$xMeasurement 606 $aOcean waves$xSimulation methods 615 0$aOcean waves$xMeasurement. 615 0$aOcean waves$xSimulation methods. 676 $a551.46/3 700 $aBabanin$b Alexander V.$f1960-$01046141 801 0$bUkCbUP 801 1$bUkCbUP 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910458053703321 996 $aBreaking and dissipation of ocean surface waves$92472841 997 $aUNINA