LEADER 03795nam 22006852 450 001 9910453385603321 005 20151005020621.0 010 $a1-107-46189-8 010 $a1-139-89353-X 010 $a1-107-45973-7 010 $a1-107-64534-4 010 $a1-107-32539-0 010 $a1-107-46541-9 010 $a1-107-47255-5 010 $a1-107-46895-7 010 $a1-107-47354-3 035 $a(CKB)2550000001138817 035 $a(EBL)1543587 035 $a(OCoLC)862614665 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000999469 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)12472661 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000999469 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10933097 035 $a(PQKB)11088481 035 $a(UkCbUP)CR9781107325395 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC1543587 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL1543587 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10774101 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL538487 035 $a(OCoLC)859536370 035 $a(EXLCZ)992550000001138817 100 $a20130125d2013|||| uy| 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur||||||||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aClothing the poor in nineteenth-century England /$fVivienne Richmond$b[electronic resource] 210 1$aCambridge :$cCambridge University Press,$d2013. 215 $a1 online resource (xiii, 344 pages) $cdigital, PDF file(s) 300 $aTitle from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015). 311 $a1-107-04227-5 311 $a1-306-07236-0 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $aIntroduction: Identifying the poor, locating their clothes -- Setting the standard: working-class dress -- 'Frankly, a mystery': budgeting for clothes -- 'Poverty busied itself': buying clothes -- 'Woman's best weapon': needlework and home-made clothing -- 'The struggle for respectability' -- The sense of self -- 'The bowels of compassion': clothing and the poor law -- 'An urgent desire to clothe them': ladies' clothing charities -- 'We have nothing but our clothes': charity schools and servants -- 'The greatest stigma and disgrace': lunatic asylums, workhouses and prisons -- Conclusion: No finery. 330 $aIn this pioneering study Vivienne Richmond reveals the importance of dress to the nineteenth-century English poor, who valued clothing not only for its practical utility, but also as a central element in the creation and assertion of collective and individual identities. During this period of rapid industrialisation and urbanisation formal dress codes, corporate and institutional uniforms and the spread of urban fashions replaced the informal dress of agricultural England. This laid the foundations of modern popular dress and generated fears about the visual blurring of social boundaries as new modes of manufacturing and retailing expanded the wardrobes of the majority. But a significant impoverished minority remained outside this process. Clothed by diminishing parish assistance, expanding paternalistic charity and the second-hand trade, they formed a 'sartorial underclass' whose material deprivation and visual distinction was a cause of physical discomfort and psychological trauma. 606 $aClothing and dress$zEngland$xHistory$y19th century 606 $aPoor$xClothing$zEngland$xHistory$y19th century 607 $aEngland$xEconomic conditions$y19th century 607 $aEngland$xSocial conditions$y19th century 615 0$aClothing and dress$xHistory 615 0$aPoor$xClothing$xHistory 676 $a391.0094209/034 700 $aRichmond$b Vivienne$01033855 801 0$bUkCbUP 801 1$bUkCbUP 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910453385603321 996 $aClothing the poor in nineteenth-century England$92452617 997 $aUNINA