LEADER 04694nam 2200613 450 001 9910155086803321 005 20201023111955.0 010 $a1-4742-8333-0 010 $a1-4742-8331-4 010 $a1-4742-8330-6 024 7 $a10.5040/9781474283335 035 $a(CKB)4340000000024075 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC4768008 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC6163569 035 $a(OCoLC)1201426667 035 $a(CaBNVSL)mat74283335 035 $a(CaBNVSL)9781474283335 035 $a(EXLCZ)994340000000024075 100 $a20201023d2020 uy 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aurcnu|||||||| 181 $2rdacontent 182 $2rdamedia 183 $2rdacarrier 200 10$aUnwrapping Tongan barkcloth $eencounters, creativity and female agency /$fFanny Wonu Veys 210 1$aLondon, England :$cBloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc,$d2020. 210 2$aLondon, England :$cBloomsbury Publishing,$d2020 215 $a1 online resource (273 pages) $cillustrations, tables, maps 311 $a1-4742-8332-2 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references. 327 $apt. 1. Encounters: Awakening European minds -- European impressions -- The quest for barkcloth names -- The ancestry of barkcloth -- 2. Creating barkcloth -- Story of a tree -- Substance of color -- Rubbing boards -- Sticky stuff -- Supersizing it -- Working together -- 3. Collecting barkcloth -- Enticing cloth -- Barkcloth appropriations -- the Alexander Shaw books -- "Spanish Lake" -- Lost collections? -- Decreasing interest -- Beachcombers, merchants, and whalers -- Missionaries -- Collecting souvenirs. 327 $apt. 2. Creativity: Creativity in shapes and forms -- Tongan-style barkcloth -- Barkcloth design through time --Barkcloth circulation -- Imagining and forging the tongan land -- Between the cross and the cloth -- Before missionary arrival -- Missionary failure and uncertainties, 1797-1827 -- Triumphant Christianity, 1828-1860 -- "Civilizing mission," gender, industriousness and economic policies --Creating beautiful and moral bodies -- Missionary attitudes and an east-west divide -- Wesleyan and Marist competition -- Barkcloth-a way of being in the world. 327 $apt. 3. Female agency -- Capturing the "Female essence"? -- Enveloped by ngatu -- Defining koloa -- Value of koloa -- Are koloa gendered? -- A feast for the senses -- A modern dynast of royals -- Royal ceremonies-a wedding, two funerals, and a coronation -- Characteristics of barkcloth -- Conflated sensations -- Conclusion- encounters, creativity, and female agency -- Encounters-surprising and vital occurrences -- Creativity-ingenious imagination -- Female agency-prestigious mediation. 330 8 $aTongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile in exhibitions, by anthropologists and by art historians, very little is known about its history. This book provides a unique insight into Polynesian material culture by exploring the rich cultural history of barkcloth. Arguing that the manufacture, decoration and use of barkcloth are vehicles of creativity and female agency, it places the materiality of textiles at the heart of Tongan culture. Based on extensive ethnographic and archival research over twelve years, Veys uncovers stories of ceremony, gender, the senses, collecting, religion and nationhood, from the 'birth' of barkcloth in the 18th century right up to contemporary Polynesian culture today, revealing not only how Tongans made (and still make) barkcloth, but also how it defines what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study outside of Tonga to explore the place of barkcloth in the European imagination, Veys addresses the museum collections of Tongan barkcloth held worldwide, from the UK to Italy, Switzerland to the USA, addressing the bias of the European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings of the cloth. 606 $aTapa$zTonga 606 $aTapa$xSocial aspects$zTonga 606 $aWomen$zTonga$xSocial conditions 606 $aMaterial culture$zTonga 606 $aTextile design & theory$2bicssc 608 $aElectronic books. 615 0$aTapa 615 0$aTapa$xSocial aspects 615 0$aWomen$xSocial conditions. 615 0$aMaterial culture 615 7$aTextile design & theory 676 $a306.4/6099612 700 $aVeys$b Fanny Wonu$0944487 801 0$bDLC 801 1$bCaBNVSL 801 2$bCaBNVSL 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910155086803321 996 $aUnwrapping Tongan barkcloth$92786842 997 $aUNINA