LEADER 00814nam0-22003011i-450- 001 990002001350403321 005 20040429124533.0 035 $a000200135 035 $aFED01000200135 035 $a(Aleph)000200135FED01 035 $a000200135 100 $a20030910d1931----km-y0itay50------ba 101 0 $ager 102 $aDE 105 $ay---a---001yy 200 1 $aAnleitung zum Sammeln in tropischen Landern$fC. Ribbe 210 $aStuttgart$cA. Kernen$d1931 215 $a214 p.$d22 cm 610 0 $aLaboratorio$aTecniche 676 $a579 700 1$aRibbe,$bCarl$084514 801 0$aIT$bUNINA$gRICA$2UNIMARC 901 $aBK 912 $a990002001350403321 952 $a61 I A.6/105$b767$fDAGEN 959 $aDAGEN 996 $aAnleitung zum Sammeln in tropischen Landern$9403332 997 $aUNINA LEADER 03769nam 22006852 450 001 9910975152003321 005 20151005020621.0 010 $a1-107-46189-8 010 $a1-139-89353-X 010 $a1-107-45973-7 010 $a1-107-64534-4 010 $a1-107-32539-0 010 $a1-107-46541-9 010 $a1-107-47255-5 010 $a1-107-46895-7 010 $a1-107-47354-3 035 $a(CKB)2550000001138817 035 $a(EBL)1543587 035 $a(OCoLC)862614665 035 $a(SSID)ssj0000999469 035 $a(PQKBManifestationID)12472661 035 $a(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000999469 035 $a(PQKBWorkID)10933097 035 $a(PQKB)11088481 035 $a(UkCbUP)CR9781107325395 035 $a(MiAaPQ)EBC1543587 035 $a(Au-PeEL)EBL1543587 035 $a(CaPaEBR)ebr10774101 035 $a(CaONFJC)MIL538487 035 $a(OCoLC)859536370 035 $a(EXLCZ)992550000001138817 100 $a20130125d2013|||| uy| 0 101 0 $aeng 135 $aur||||||||||| 181 $ctxt$2rdacontent 182 $cc$2rdamedia 183 $acr$2rdacarrier 200 10$aClothing the poor in nineteenth-century England /$fVivienne Richmond 210 1$aCambridge :$cCambridge University Press,$d2013. 215 $a1 online resource (xiii, 344 pages) $cdigital, PDF file(s) 300 $aTitle from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015). 311 08$a1-107-04227-5 311 08$a1-306-07236-0 320 $aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 327 $aIntroduction: Identifying the poor, locating their clothes -- Setting the standard: working-class dress -- 'Frankly, a mystery': budgeting for clothes -- 'Poverty busied itself': buying clothes -- 'Woman's best weapon': needlework and home-made clothing -- 'The struggle for respectability' -- The sense of self -- 'The bowels of compassion': clothing and the poor law -- 'An urgent desire to clothe them': ladies' clothing charities -- 'We have nothing but our clothes': charity schools and servants -- 'The greatest stigma and disgrace': lunatic asylums, workhouses and prisons -- Conclusion: No finery. 330 $aIn this pioneering study Vivienne Richmond reveals the importance of dress to the nineteenth-century English poor, who valued clothing not only for its practical utility, but also as a central element in the creation and assertion of collective and individual identities. During this period of rapid industrialisation and urbanisation formal dress codes, corporate and institutional uniforms and the spread of urban fashions replaced the informal dress of agricultural England. This laid the foundations of modern popular dress and generated fears about the visual blurring of social boundaries as new modes of manufacturing and retailing expanded the wardrobes of the majority. But a significant impoverished minority remained outside this process. Clothed by diminishing parish assistance, expanding paternalistic charity and the second-hand trade, they formed a 'sartorial underclass' whose material deprivation and visual distinction was a cause of physical discomfort and psychological trauma. 606 $aClothing and dress$zEngland$xHistory$y19th century 606 $aPoor$xClothing$zEngland$xHistory$y19th century 607 $aEngland$xEconomic conditions$y19th century 607 $aEngland$xSocial conditions$y19th century 615 0$aClothing and dress$xHistory 615 0$aPoor$xClothing$xHistory 676 $a391.0094209/034 700 $aRichmond$b Vivienne$01843950 801 0$bUkCbUP 801 1$bUkCbUP 906 $aBOOK 912 $a9910975152003321 996 $aClothing the poor in nineteenth-century England$94426022 997 $aUNINA