LEADER 05715nam0 22003613i 450 001 VAN0195796 005 20210804114737.994 010 $a978-13-500-6130-9$bhardback 017 70$2N$a9781350061330$bonline 100 $a20210804d2020 |0itac50 ba 101 $aeng 102 $aGB 105 $a|||| ||||| 200 1 $aContemporary indonesian fashion$ethrough the looking glass$fAlessandra Lopez Y Royo 210 $aLondon [etc.]$cBloomsbury$d2020 215 $aXXXIII, 216 p.$cill.$d24 cm 330 $aIndonesian fashion has undergone a period of rapid growth over the last three decades. This book explores how through years of social, political, and cultural upheaval, the country?s fashion has moved away from ?colonial fashion? and ?national dress? to claim its own distinct identity as contemporary fashion in a global world. With specific reference to women?s wear, Contemporary Indonesian Fashion explores the diversity and complexity of the country?s sartorial offerings, which weave together local textile traditions like batik and ikat-making with contemporary narratives. The book questions concepts of ?tradition? and ?modernity? in the developing world, taking stock of the elite consumption of luxury brands and the large-scale manufacturing of fast fashion, and introduces us to the rise of new trends such as busana muslim (or ?modest wear?), creating a portrait of a vibrant and growing national and, increasingly, international, industry. Exploring clothing in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed, combining research in Indonesia with analysis and personal reflection. Contemporary Indonesian Fashion ultimately questions the deeply entrenched eurocentrism of ?global fashion?, simultaneously interrogating current homogenizing beauty and body image discourses posited as universal, by pointing to absences, silences, and erasures as reflected by contemporary Indonesian fashion? hence the ?looking glass? of the title. Aptly illustrated, the book offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital, Jakarta. Contemporary Indonesian fashion has grown, through socio-political and cultural upheavals, in the post- reformasi period, from varied earlier incarnations as ?colonial fashion? ?national dress? and ?fashion trends in Indonesia?. Its existence bears out the commitment of the designers, many of whom are themselves women, to dressing urban women, envisioned as sleek, chic and sassy, with a global outlook, and offering a mix of ready-to-wear and bespoke fittings. Contemporary Indonesian fashion reveals a high degree of complexity and multi-layering, with a unique and rather distinctive aesthetics, whilst on the surface perfectly comfortable with adopting a European fashion system and terminology. Rich textile traditions of batik making and ikat weaving, rooted in the history of local communities, underpin the personal trajectories of today?s designers and their attempts to create ?clothes that tell a story?. Niche manufacturing of eco-design markedly contrasts with an avid elite consumption of international high end, status enhancing, luxury brands, and with low end, large scale clothing manufacturing and consumption of fast fashion. In the background, there is the trend of ?modest wear?, perceived as a globally profitable opportunity and enthusiastically received by the Western fashion capitals although its adoption within Indonesia, and its perception as signifier of Indonesian fashion, remains contentious. The aesthetic discourse of Indonesian fashion is entwined with the ?international? beauty standards touted by the beauty industry and relayed and amplified by media intervention, through the glamorizing narratives of fashion photography, though not without resistance. Additionally, the endorsement of ?stylish individualism? by the high end shopping malls and the fashion magazines sustains the performance of a ?stylish femininity? variously defined. Combining research in Indonesia with analysis and personal reflection, this book ultimately questions the deeply entrenched eurocentrism of ?global fashion?, simultaneously interrogating current homogenising beauty and body image discourses posited as universal, by pointing to absences, silences and erasures as reflected back by contemporary Indonesian fashion ? hence the ?looking glass? of the title. 500 1$3VAN0195798$aContemporary indonesian fashion$91853445 606 $aModa$xIndonesia$3VANC036420$2AR 620 $aGB$dLondon$3VANL000015 676 $a746.92094521$v21 700 1$aLopez y Royo$bAlessandra$3VANV172675$0827151 712 02$aBloomsbury$ceditore$3VANV144572 791 02$aBloomsbury Academic$zBloomsbury $3VANV146605 791 02$aBloomsbury Visual Arts$zBloomsbury $3VANV146611 801 $aIT$bSOL$c20230616$gRICA 856 4 $uhttps://www.bloomsburycollections.com/book/contemporary-indonesian-fashion-through-the-looking-glass/$zE-book ? Accesso al full-text attraverso riconoscimento IP di Ateneo, proxy e/o Shibboleth. 899 $aBIBLIOTECA DEL DIPARTIMENTO DI ARCHITETTURA E DISEGNO INDUSTRIALE$1IT-CE0107$2VAN01 912 $fN 912 $aVAN0195796 950 $aBIBLIOTECA DEL DIPARTIMENTO DI ARCHITETTURA E DISEGNO INDUSTRIALE$d01CONS E-BOOK SBAARCH $e01EBA195796 20210804 E-book ? Accesso al full-text attraverso riconoscimento IP di Ateneo, proxy e/o Shibboleth. 996 $aContemporary indonesian fashion$91853445 997 $aUNICAMPANIA