04538oam 2200733Ia 450 991080850490332120240418022909.01-283-89809-80-8122-0533-210.9783/9780812205336(CKB)3170000000046582(OCoLC)794700574(CaPaEBR)ebrary10576062(SSID)ssj0000605749(PQKBManifestationID)11391680(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000605749(PQKBWorkID)10574899(PQKB)10844748(MdBmJHUP)muse8332(DE-B1597)449389(OCoLC)1013946160(OCoLC)979748546(DE-B1597)9780812205336(Au-PeEL)EBL3441622(CaPaEBR)ebr10576062(CaONFJC)MIL421059(MiAaPQ)EBC3441622(EXLCZ)99317000000004658220100302h20102010 uy 0engurcn|||||||||txtrdacontentcrdamediacrrdacarrierAccessories to modernity fashion and the feminine in nineteenth-century France /Susan Hiner1st ed.Philadelphia :University of Pennsylvania Press,2010.©20101 online resource (viii, 281 pages) illustrationsBibliographic Level Mode of Issuance: Monograph0-8122-4259-9 Includes bibliographical references and index.Front matter --Contents --List of Illustrations --Prologue --1. La Femme comme il (en) faut and the Pursuit of Distinction --2. Unpacking the Corbeille de mariage --3. "Cashmere Fever": Virtue and the Domestication of the Exotic --4. Mademoiselle Ombrelle: Shielding the Fair Sex --5. Fan Fetish: Gender, Nostalgia, and Commodification --6. Between Good Intentions and Ulterior Motives: The Culture of Handbags --Epilogue. The Feminine Accessory --Notes --Bibliography --Index --AcknowledgmentsAccessories to Modernity explores the ways in which feminine fashion accessories, such as cashmere shawls, parasols, fans, and handbags, became essential instruments in the bourgeois idealization of womanhood in nineteenth-century France. Considering how these fashionable objects were portrayed in fashion journals and illustrations, as well as fiction, the book explores the histories and cultural weight of the objects themselves and offers fresh readings of works by Balzac, Flaubert, and Zola, some of the most widely read novels of the period. As social boundaries were becoming more and more fluid in the nineteenth century, one effort to impose order over the looming confusion came, in the case of women, through fashion, and the fashion accessory thus became an ever more crucial tool through which social distinction could be created, projected, and maintained. Looking through the lens of fashion, Susan Hiner explores the interplay of imperialist expansion and domestic rituals, the assertion of privilege in the face of increasing social mobility, gendering practices and their relation to social hierarchies, and the rise of commodity culture and woman's paradoxical status as both consumer and object within it. Through her close focus on these luxury objects, Hiner reframes the feminine fashion accessory as a key symbol of modernity that bridges the erotic and proper, the domestic and exotic, and mass production and the work of art while making a larger claim about the "accessory" status-in terms of both complicity and subordination-of bourgeois women in nineteenth-century France. Women were not simply passive bystanders but rather were themselves accessories to the work of modernity from which they were ostensibly excluded.Clothing and dressFranceHistory19th centuryFashionFranceHistory19th centuryWomenFranceHistory19th centuryFranceSocial life and customs19th centuryCultural Studies.Gender Studies.Literature.Women's Studies.Clothing and dressHistoryFashionHistoryWomenHistory391.00944/09034Hiner Susan1635120MiAaPQMiAaPQMiAaPQBOOK9910808504903321Accessories to modernity3975719UNINA