04241oam 2200793 450 991078792590332120230126211109.00-85785-128-41-350-05119-50-85785-129-210.5040/9781350051195(CKB)2670000000576855(EBL)1847917(SSID)ssj0001382692(PQKBManifestationID)11771344(PQKBTitleCode)TC0001382692(PQKBWorkID)11474112(PQKB)11052880(MiAaPQ)EBC1847917(OCoLC)1201426404(CaBNVSL)9781350051195(MiAaPQ)EBC6161893(EXLCZ)99267000000057685520201023d2020 uy 0engurcn|---|||||txtccrFashion and jazz dress, identity and subcultural improvisation /Alphonso McClendonLondon, England :Bloomsbury Academic,2020.1 online resource (217 p.)Dress, body, cultureDescription based upon print version of record.0-85785-127-6 0-85785-126-8 Includes bibliographical references, discography, filmography and index.Introduction -- 1. Dress theory, fashion and a jazz aesthetic -- 2. A stylish history of jazz : 1900-1960 -- 3. A narrative of jazz modernity -- 4. Assessing elitism and branding in jazz -- 5. Gendered identities, ideologies and cultural difference -- 6. Subversive representation : vernacular, dress and morality -- 7. Narcotics and jazz : a fashionable addiction -- 8. Beyond the gardenia : Billie Holiday -- 9. Aesthetics of the jazz dandy -- 10. Philadelphia nightlife, nostalgia and popular culture -- Coda -- Appendix I: Recommended listening -- Appendix II: Recommended viewing -- Bibliography -- Index."Born in the late 19th century, jazz gained mainstream popularity during a volatile period of racial segregation and gender inequality. It was in these adverse conditions that jazz performers discovered the power of dress as a visual tool used to defy mainstream societal constructs, shaping a new fashion and style aesthetic. Fashion and Jazz is the first study to identify the behaviours, signs and meanings that defined this newly evolving subcultural style. Drawing on fashion studies and cultural theory, the book provides an in-depth analysis of the social and political entanglements of jazz and dress, with individual chapters exploring key themes such as race, class and gender. Including a wide variety of case studies, ranging from Billie Holliday and Ella Fitzgerald to Louis Armstrong and Chet Baker, it presents a critical and cultural analysis of jazz performers as modern icons of fashion and popular style. Addressing a number of previously underexplored areas of jazz culture, such as modern dandyism and the link between drug use and glamorous dress, Fashion and Jazz provides a fascinating history of fashion's dialogue with African-American art and style. It is essential reading for students of fashion, cultural studies, African-American studies and history"--Provided by publisher.Dress, body, culture.Clothing and dressHistoryFashionHistoryJazzSocial aspectsFashion & societybicsscClothing and dressHistoryFashionHistoryJazzSocial aspectsClothing and dressHistory.FashionHistory.JazzSocial aspects.Fashion & societyClothing and dressHistoryFashionHistoryJazzSocial aspects39121.85bcl24.65bcl71.59bclDES005000MUS025000bisacshLC 12610rvkLS 48200rvkMcClendon Alphonso1537401DLCCaBNVSLCaBNVSLBOOK9910787925903321Fashion and jazz3786684UNINA