05557nam 2200757 a 450 991046371350332120200520144314.01-283-89626-50-8122-0605-310.9783/9780812206050(CKB)3240000000068531(EBL)3441930(SSID)ssj0000631271(PQKBManifestationID)11451823(PQKBTitleCode)TC0000631271(PQKBWorkID)10591649(PQKB)11329634(MiAaPQ)EBC3441930(OCoLC)794702277(MdBmJHUP)muse17924(DE-B1597)449307(OCoLC)1004875671(OCoLC)1013956158(DE-B1597)9780812206050(Au-PeEL)EBL3441930(CaPaEBR)ebr10642682(CaONFJC)MIL420876(OCoLC)932312600(EXLCZ)99324000000006853120080128d2008 uy 0engur|||||||nn|ntxtccrProducing fashion[electronic resource] commerce, culture, and consumers /edited by Regina Lee BlaszczykPhiladelphia University of Pennsylvania Pressc20081 online resource (376 p.)Hagley Perspectives on Business and CultureHagley perspectives on business and cultureDescription based upon print version of record.0-8122-2066-8 Includes bibliographical references (p. [293]-348) and index.Chapter 1. Rethinking fashion / Regina Lee Blaszczyk -- PART I. Organizing the fashion trades -- Chapter 2. Spreading the word : the development of the Russian fashion press / Christine Ruane -- Chapter 3. Accessorizing, Italian style : creating a market for Milan's fashion merchandise / Elisabetta Merlo and Francesca Polese -- Chapter 4. In the shadow of Paris? French haute couture and Belgian fashion between the wars / Veronique Pouillard -- Chapter 5. Licensing practices at Maison Christian Dior / Tomoko Okawa -- PART II. Inventing fashions, promoting styles -- Chapter 6. The wiener werkstatte and the reform impulse / Heather Hess -- Chapter 7. American fashions for American women : The rise and fall of fashion nationalism / Marlis Schweitzer -- Chapter 8. Coiffing vanity : advertising celluloid toilet sets in 1920s America / Ariel Beaujot -- PART III. Shaping bodies, building brands -- Chapter 9. California casual : lifestyle marketing and men's leisurewear, 1930-1960 / William Scott -- Chapter 10. Marlboro men : outside masculinities and commercial modeling in postwar America / Elspeth Brown -- Chapter 11. The body and the brand : how Lycra shaped America / Kaori O'Connor -- PART IV. Customer reactions, consumer adaptations -- Chapter 12. French hairstyles and the elusive consumer / Steve Zdatny -- Chapter 13. Ripping up the uniform approach: Hungarian women piece together a new communist fashion / Katalin Medvedev -- Chapter 14. Why the old-fashioned is in fashion in American houses / Susan Matt.How has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages? Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods. Producing Fashion is a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing. The collection reveals how public and private institutions-from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States-worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion-advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers-in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars. Producing Fashion looks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries.Hagley Perspectives on Business and CultureFashion design20th centuryHistoryFashion merchandising20th centuryHistoryConsumers' preferences20th centuryHistoryMarketingManagement20th centuryHistoryProduct management20th centuryHistoryElectronic books.Fashion designHistory.Fashion merchandisingHistory.Consumers' preferencesHistory.MarketingManagementHistory.Product managementHistory.746.9/2Blaszczyk Regina Lee947374MiAaPQMiAaPQMiAaPQBOOK9910463713503321Producing fashion2477804UNINA