1.

Record Nr.

UNINA9910825445703321

Titolo

Advances in coastal and ocean engineering . Volume 7 / / editor, Philip L.-F. Liu

Pubbl/distr/stampa

Singapore ; ; River Edge, N.J. : , : World Scientific, , 2001

ISBN

1-281-93451-8

9786611934514

981-279-457-3

Edizione

[1st ed.]

Descrizione fisica

1 online resource (xi, 240 pages) : illustrations

Collana

Advances in coastal and ocean engineering ; ; v. 7

Altri autori (Persone)

LiuPhilip L. F

Disciplina

620.4146

Soggetti

Coastal engineering

Ocean engineering

Lingua di pubblicazione

Inglese

Formato

Materiale a stampa

Livello bibliografico

Monografia

Note generali

Description based upon print version of record.

Nota di bibliografia

Includes bibliographical references.

Nota di contenuto

Preface to the review series; Preface to the seventh volume; Contributors; Contents; Nonlinear Modulation of Water Waves; 1. Introduction; 2. Basic Insight into Modulational Processes; 2.1. A simple example of instability; 2.2. Basic ideas of the Benjamin-Feir instability mechanism; 3. Nonlinear Schrodinger-type Equations: Horizontal Bottom; 3.1. A heuristic derivation of the NLS equation; 3.2. The scaling in the NLS equation; 3.3. A sketch of the derivation in two horizontal dimensions; 3.4. Conservation laws; 3.5. Special cases of NLS-type equations; 3.6. Effects of surface tension

4. Nonlinear Schrodinger-type Equations: Uneven Bottom; 4.1. Propagation in one dimension; 4.2. Propagation in two horizontal dimensions; 4.3. Shallow-water limit; 4.4. Effect of an ambient current on 1D propagation; 5. Some Solutions of the NLS-type Equations; 5.1. Decaying solutions; 5.2. Soliton-type solutions; 6. Higher-Order Modulation Equations; 6.1. The Dysthe equation; 6.2. Modification due to an ambient current; 6.3. The Zakharov equation; 6.4. Reduction of Zakharov equation to NLS-type equation; 6.5. Extensions of the Zakharov equation; 7. Generation of Free Long Waves

7.1. Formulation of the equations; 7.2. 1D situation no ambient currents; 8. Observations of Wave Modulations; 8.1. Theoretical aspects of modulational instability; 8.2. Laboratory observations; 8.3. Deep-



water modulation: initial stage and demodulation; 8.4. Deep-water modulation: modulation leading to breaking; 8.5. Spectral evolution; 8.6. Comparison between theory and experiment; 9. Summary; References; Bubble Measurement Techniques and Bubble Dynamics in Coastal Shallow Water; 1. Introduction; 2. Primary Mechanisms of Wave Breaking and Bubble Generation

3. The Bubble Field Description and Bubble Sensors; 4. Shallow Water Deployment Techniques; 5. Large Scale Shallow Water Field Experiments (1985-1999); 6. Bubble Void Fraction Variations Near Surf Zones; 7. Bubble Size Distributions in Littoral Zones; 8. General Remarks on Bubble Dynamics in Shallow Water; References; Simulation of Waves in Harbors Using Two-Dimensional Elliptic Equation Models; 1. Introduction; 2. Boundary Conditions; 3. Numerical Solution; 4. Incorporation of Additional Mechanisms; 5. Application to Harbors; 6. Concluding Remarks; References

Recent Advances in the Modeling of Wave and Permeable Structure Interaction; 1. Introduction; 2. Porous Flow Models; 3. General Governing Equations and Matching Conditions; 4. Wave Interaction with Structures. Linear Solutions; 5. Shallow Water Models; 6. Short Wave-Averaged Flow; 7. Modeling Based on the Navier-Stokes Equations; 8. Conclusions; 9. Future Work; References; Descriptive Hydrodynamics of Lock-Exchange Flows; 1. Introduction; 2. Experimental Facilities; 3. Basis for Interpretations of Flow Images; 4. Features of Gravity Currents; 5. Features of Internal Bores; 6. Flow Expansion of Gravity Currents and Internal Bores

Sommario/riassunto

This volume consists of five articles covering a wide range of topics in coastal oceanographic engineering. The reader can find an article discussing the modern bubble measurement techniques applied to field studies of bubble dynamics in coastal shallow water. A comprehensive review paper on nonlinear modulation of water waves provides readers with a new perspective on nonlinear processes in the coastal and ocean wave environment. For those who are interested in wave modelling, there are two review articles discussing various wave models, which can be used to study wave-structure interactions and harbor oscillations. Finally, readers who are interested in the subject of stratified flows can find an article presenting the detailed laboratory observations of lock-exchange flows.