The three-piece suit and modern masculinity [[electronic resource] ] : England, 1550-1850 / / David Kuchta

• Record Nr.: UNINA9910455608903321
• Autore: Kuchta David <1960->
• Pubbl/distr/stampa: Berkeley, : University of California Press, c2002
• ISBN: 1-282-75872-1; 9786612758720; 0-520-92139-9; 1-59734-954-2
• Descrizione fisica: 1 online resource (314 p.)
• Collana: Studies on the history of society and culture ; ; 47
• Disciplina: 391/.1/0942
• Soggetti: Men's clothing - England - History; Masculinity - History; Electronic books.
• Lingua di pubblicazione: Inglese
• Formato: Materiale a stampa
• Livello bibliografico: Monografia
• Note generali: Revision of the author's thesis (doctoral).
• Nota di bibliografia: Includes bibliographical references (p. 253-293) and index.
• Nota di contenuto: Conspicuous constructions -- The old sartorial regime, 1550-1688 -- "Apparel oft proclaims the man" -- The crown proclaims the apparel -- Court capitalism -- Religious conformity to fashion -- The seventeenth-century fashion crisis -- "The mode is a tyrant" -- "A tailor made thee" -- "Popery and foppery" -- The moral economy of mercantilism -- The three-piece suit -- Masculinity in the "Age of Chivalry," 1688-1832 -- "the manners of a republic" -- Gentlemanly capitalism -- Sublime masculinity -- The feminization of fashion -- The making of the self-made man, 1750-1850 -- "Character is power" -- The language of capital -- "The great masculine renunciation."
• Sommario/riassunto: In 1666, King Charles II felt it necessary to reform Englishmen's dress by introducing a fashion that developed into the three-piece suit. We learn what inspired this royal revolution in masculine attire--and the reasons for its remarkable longevity--in David Kuchta's engaging and handsomely illustrated account. Between 1550 and 1850, Kuchta says, English upper- and middle-class men understood their authority to be based in part upon the display of masculine character: how they presented themselves in public and demonstrated their masculinity ; helped define their political legitimacy, moral authority, and economic utility. Much has been written about the ways political culture, religion, and economic theory helped shape ideals and practices of masculinity. Kuchta allows us to see the process working in reverse, in that masculine manners and habits of consumption in a patriarchal society contributed actively to people's understanding of what held England together.Kuchta shows not only how the ideology of modern English masculinity was a self-consciously political and public creation but also how such explicitly political decisions and values became internalized, personalized, and naturalized into everyday manners and habits.

Letters and orations [[electronic resource] /] / Cassandra Fedele ; edited and translated by Diana Robin

• Record Nr.: UNINA9910784959203321
• Autore: Fedele Cassandra <1465?-1558.>
• Pubbl/distr/stampa: Chicago, : University of Chicago Press, 2000
• ISBN: 1-281-12554-7; 9786611125547; 0-226-23933-0
• Descrizione fisica: 1 online resource (211 p.)
• Collana: Other voice in early modern Europe
• Altri autori (Persone): RobinDiana Maury
• Disciplina: 875/.04
• Soggetti: Speeches, addresses, etc., Latin (Medieval and modern) - Italy - Venice; Authors, Latin (Medieval and modern) - Italy - Venice; Humanists - Italy - Venice; Feminists - Italy - Venice; Italy Intellectual life 1268-1559 Sources
• Lingua di pubblicazione: Inglese
• Formato: Materiale a stampa
• Livello bibliografico: Monografia
• Note generali: Description based upon print version of record.
• Nota di bibliografia: Includes bibliographical references (p. 167-174) and index.
• Nota di contenuto: Front matter -- CONTENTS -- Introduction to the Series -- Acknowledgments -- Editor's Introduction -- One. Women Patrons -- Two. Family Members -- Three. Princes and Courtiers -- Four. Academics and Literary Friends -- Five. Men of the Church -- Six. Unknown Correspondents and Humanist Form Letters -- Seven. The ; Public Lectures -- Bibliography -- Index
• Sommario/riassunto: By the end of the fifteenth century, Cassandra Fedele (1465-1558), a learned middle-class woman of Venice, was arguably the most famous woman writer and scholar in Europe. A cultural icon in her own time, she regularly corresponded with the king of France, lords of Milan and Naples, the Borgia pope Alexander VI, and even maintained a ten-year epistolary exchange with Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand of Spain that resulted in an invitation for her to join their court. Fedele's letters reveal the central, mediating role she occupied in a community of scholars otherwise inaccessible to women. Her unique admittance into this community is also highlighted by her presence as the first independent woman writer in Italy to speak publicly and, more importantly, the first to address philosophical, political, and moral issues in her own voice. Her three public orations and almost all of her letters, translated into English, are presented here for the first time.