1.

Record Nr.

UNINA9910512010103321

Titolo

Fashion curating : critical practice in the museum and beyond / / edited by Annamari Vänskä and Hazel Clark

Pubbl/distr/stampa

London, England : , : Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, , 2020

London, England : , : Bloomsbury Publishing, , 2020

ISBN

1-4742-8713-1

1-4742-8711-5

Descrizione fisica

1 online resource (281 pages, 24 numbered pages of plates) : illustrations, photographs

Classificazione

DES005000ART059000DES008000ART006000

Disciplina

792.02/6

Soggetti

Costume museums

Museums - Curatorship

Fashion design & theory

Electronic books.

Lingua di pubblicazione

Inglese

Formato

Materiale a stampa

Livello bibliografico

Monografia

Nota di bibliografia

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Nota di contenuto

Introduction : Fashion curating in the museum and beyond / Hazel Clark and Annamari Vänskä -- Section I. Inside the museum : Confronting fashion's death drive: conservation, ghost labor, and the material turn within fashion curation / Sarah Scaturro -- Permanence and impermanence: curating western textiles and fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum / Alexandra Palmer -- Unfamiliar places, local voices: four emerging curatorial narratives in Australia (2010-2016) / Robyn Healy -- Fashion curation at MoMu: digital challenges / Kaat Debo -- Section II. The independents : Props and other attributes: fashion and exhibition-making / Judith Clark -- Staging fashion in Somerset House, London / Alistair O'Neill -- Boutique: where art and fashion meet: curating as collaboration and cultural critique / Annamari Vänskä -- From lesbian and gay to queer: challenging the hegemony in collecting and exhibiting LGBT fashion and dress / Shaun Cole -- Intervening fashion: a case for feminist approaches to fashion curation / Nathalie Khan -- Section III. Beyond the museum : Fashion museums and fashion exhibitions in Italy: new perspectives in Italian fashion studies /



Simona Segre Reinach -- Beyond garments: reorienting the practice and discourse of fashion curating / Marco Pecorari -- Fashion curates art: Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton / Peter Bengtsen -- Artification and authenticity: museum exhibtions of luxury fashion brands in China / Yuli Bai.

Sommario/riassunto

"As the practice of fashion curation extends into commercial galleries, public and retail spaces, and even to the individual self, professional concepts of 'curating' are undergoing rapid change. Today, everyone is seemingly able to 'curate', but where does this leave the traditional understanding of curation as clothing collected and displayed in a museum? This thought-provoking volume explores the practice of fashion curating in the 21st century, bridging the gap between methods of display and notions of 'the curatorial' in fashion exhibitions, commercial settings, and the virtual world. From fashion's earliest forays into the museum to creative collaborations between luxury fashion brands and artists, this book challenges understandings of fashion curation by drawing on the palpably new spaces, places, and actors in today's curating scene. Exploring poetic and performative museum displays in venues such as the V & A, Somerset House, MoMu and the Royal Ontario Museum, alongside the ways that brands such as Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton have made use of 'the curatorial' in their own commercial strategies, Fashion Curating asks pressing questions about controversial funding and collaboration from the commercial fashion sector, and the limitations of producing exhibitions that are at the same time critical and popular. Bringing together approaches from fashion curators, designers and world-renowned academics, curation is positioned as a critical practice that opens up new ways of conceptualizing and theorizing fashion, challenging how we think and what we already know"--



2.

Record Nr.

UNINA9910265133203321

Autore

Müller Miriam M <p>Miriam M. Müller, Free University of Berlin, Germany </p>

Titolo

A Spectre is Haunting Arabia : How the Germans Brought Their Communism to Yemen / Miriam M. Müller

Pubbl/distr/stampa

Bielefeld, : transcript Verlag, 2015

ISBN

9783839432259

3839432251

Edizione

[1st ed.]

Descrizione fisica

1 online resource (441 p.)

Collana

Edition Politik

Disciplina

320.95332000000002

Soggetti

Yemen

Marxism

GDR

Cold War

State-Building

Middle East

Ideology

Soviet Union

Arab Peninsula

Politics

International Relations

Political Ideologies

State

Contemporary History

Political Science

Lingua di pubblicazione

Inglese

Formato

Materiale a stampa

Livello bibliografico

Monografia

Note generali

Description based upon print version of record.

Nota di bibliografia

Includes bibliographical references.

Nota di contenuto

Frontmatter    1 Content    5 Abbreviations (in German and English)    11 Preface    13 CHAPTER 1. Then and Now    19 CHAPTER 2. State of Research    31 CHAPTER 3. Analytical Approach    47 CHAPTER 4. Squeezed between Bonn and Moscow    77 CHAPTER 5. Phase I: Between Internal Consolidation and International Recognition    85 CHAPTER 6. Phase II: From No.2 in the Eastern Bloc to Just Another



Isolation    97 CHAPTER 7. The "Three Spheres of Foreign Policy Making"    109 CHAPTER 8. The GDR and the "Arab World"    157 CHAPTER 9. Forging a National Identity in Yemen's South    187 CHAPTER 10. Methodological Prelude    229 FOREIGN POLICY PHASE ANALYSIS    243 CHAPTER 11. Phase I: The Phase of Sampling and Creation    245 CHAPTER 12. Phase II    265 Interlude. South Yemen    297 CHAPTER 13. Phase III: The Phase of Continuity and Consolidation    307 CHAPTER 14. Phase IV: The Phase of Neglect - The GDR in Yemen from 1986 to 1990    329 CHAPTER 15. On the External and Internal Empirical "Limits" of East German Foreign Policy    356 CHAPTER 16. South Yemen as the Model Case of a Possible East German Foreign Policy    369 CHAPTER 17. Moscow, East Berlin and the "Hawks of Hadramawt"    383 I. Bibliography    397 II. Archival Documents    425

Sommario/riassunto

Radical ideologies may manifest differently at first, but they do follow a similar logic: truth claims, promises of salvation and a unifying common enemy. In Yemen's transition process today, the secessionist movement Al-Hirak has summoned the spirit of South Yemen, the only Marxist state in Arabia. This book meticulously describes how East Germany supported the implantation of this alien ideology in Yemen through its policy of »Socialist state- and nation-building«. In the same breath, the analysis captures the GDR's activities in the Middle East and their vital role in Moscow's Cold War strategy. Last but least, the study provides one of the few compact overviews of East German foreign policy in the English language of today.

»[The] work stands as a great example of the strength of an open-minded interdisciplinary approach and should serve as both an encouragement and a reminder that the history of the GDR's foreign policy (not only) in Yemen has not yet been conclusively written. Thanks to Müller's book, future scholars will have a strong and solid foundation from which to continue writing the history of this peculiar ›Spectre‹.«

»Die Arbeit schließt eine wichtige Lücke in der Forschung zur DDR-Geschichte.«

»Das Verdienst des Buches [ist es], gewohnte Forschungsperspektiven gewechselt und den Komplex des ostdeutsch-südjemenitischen Verhältnisses in einen größeren – primär das englischsprachige Publikum adressierenden – politikwissenschaftlich-theoretischen Kontext gerückt zu haben, indem er als ›socialist state- and nation-building‹ gefasst wurde.«

»Insgesamt bietet Müllers Werk den ersten, auf deutschem Archivmaterial basierenden Überblick über die ostdeutsch-südjemenitischen Beziehungen. Er schließt damit eine bedeutende Lücke in der bestehenden Historiographie beider Länder und stellt lang gehaltene Annahmen über die Rolle der DDR im Südjemen in Frage.«

Besprochen in:Jemen-Report (2016), Thanos PetourisThe Chronicle, 01.04.2016

Reviewed in:The Chronicle, 01.04.2016