Land of stone, iron, glass : land of the Basques -- Wherixe are we, exactly?, and what will we call this place? -- A short version of a long history : from the Stone Age to the Civil War -- Bai, bai, Urdaibai : cave paintings, painted trees, tree of Gernika-- The fronton at the heart of life : the power and beauty of pelota -- Cinco villas : Pio Baroja, flying Mari, sword dances, and sorcery -- Gastronomy : some answers to the most urgent Basque question -- Wow, Bilbao! : the transformation of a tough city -- From the music of labour, to music as a labour of love -- Obaba in Asteasu : the Basque village as a literary universe -- Serious fun : fiestas in Laguardia -- Don't mention the war : the dark side of Basque and Spanish politics -- Bay of Biscay : whales, Belle Epoque, decapitated geese, sexual politics -- Navaree, heartland or hinterland? -- Mountain high : pleasure and penitence and pagan gods -- Iparralde : the Basques on the other side of the mountains. |