Blood Canyon : Barrancabermeja -- Down the Magdalena River : Puerto Wilches, San Pablo, Simití, Santa Rosa -- Old Colombia : Mompox, El Banco, Cartagena, and Old Providence -- Banana country : Turbo, Apartadó, San José, Chigorodó, and Pavarandó -- Returning to Darién : the Cuenca del Cacarica -- Quibdó, the Medio Atrato, and the Pacific Coast -- In the fields of the drug lords -- Despatches from the Colombian elections : July 1997 to August 1998 -- To the Llanos : Villavicencio, Puerto Inírida, and El Tuparro -- The Royal Ways, the Nevados, and Armero -- Putumayo : coke is it -- Bogotá -- News of a kidnapping -- Lunch with Lucía -- Just another day at the office. |